Cruising with Capdiy

here is an excerpt from my log book on board "Whisper" (Choy Lee 36), an unpaid delivery adventure with a good friend.

10:45 AM March 17, 1995 to June 1, 1995
Sailing down the coast destined for Ft. Lauderdale on a beautiful day with the intention of over nighting there prior to heading across to the Bahamas. Near Hillsborough Inlet we decided to head ESE instead for 'Great Isaac Lighthouse and the Bahamas. As the wind was from the SW we worked on a 2 hour watch set up and sighted Great Isaac at about 3AM. The wind changed to the W at 15 knots with storms all around us, which we were lucky to miss. Prior to entering the channel into 'Great Stirrup' a squall did catch us 25-30 knots, but passed quickly. The description of the approach in the 'Bahama guide' was quite accurate. ADD: stay on 110 degrees as the 'well marked channel' does not start for about 2.5 miles after the turning mark. The 'green' pylons are not green but just plain wooden poles. The 'cut' into the harbour is not visible until you are just about in i

t. It is located directly under the tall radio tower behind the largest visible hill.
117nm
Great Stirrup Cay to Market Fish Cay10am March 19, 1995 - 18.6nm

A beautiful deserted anchorage between the 2 southern most cays. The approach in carries 8-10' of water all the way. The bottom is sand and grass and completely devoid of life. Fenton worked and swore at the gear box all morning, but with all the effort, we still only have forward, no neutral or reverse. Had an incredible afternoon and evening. We went snorkeling on the coral reef just outside the entrance between the cays E of our anchorage. Within 2 minutes Fenton announced with snorts and screams the passing of 2 10lb crays (lobsters). We managed to catch between us. After a bit of exploring we returned to 'Whisper' to feast on our catch. We had to cook the tail & legs separately as the beast was to big to fit into our largest pot.

Market Fish Cay to Whale Cay 0800 - 1330 March 19, 1995 -13nm
The planed destination was actually was about 7 miles further north 'Frozen Cay', but the sailing conditions were so perfect that we decided to keep going. The approach between 'Whale' & and; 'Little Whale' is over numerous submerged coral patches (10-12'). The rocky coral head mentioned in the guide book is well to the southern end of the entrance and breaks at low water. The afternoon was spent eating, sleeping and eating. I introduced Fenton to 'sashimi' (Japanese raw fish), sauteed trevally fillets as well as 'namus' - a Torres Strait Island fish salad - and Austrian pancakes. The anchorage was a bit unsettling as we anchored too close to the entrance - right in the middle of a strong tidal surge. Had 10 other boats in the anchorage with us.

Whale Cay to West Bay (New Providence) March 22, 1995 - 27nm
Well we changed our mind again, or I should say the weather did. We decide to head straight for 'New Providence" as the conditions were just perfect. To crown it off, we landed a 40lb dolphin fish (Mahi Mahi) just a few miles out from the anchorage ??? Don't ever anchor in there in a westerly! We had the worst night of constant pitching and rolling. This is probably a great anchorage in an easterly. Neither one of us could want to leave there soon enough. We departed at 0730 for 'Highbourne Cay' and the start of the 'Exumas' The dolphin fish we caught on the way was quite a chore to fillet but provided us with a huge bowl of 'Namus' made by Fenton and at least six other meals.

West Bay to Highbourne Cay 0730 - 1630 March 23,19995 -46nm
Although a bit apprehensive about crossing 45nm of shallow water (10-20') we had a great sail all the way. Fixed a tear in the 'reacher'.
Highbourne turned out to be an excellent Anchorage allowing us a full and peaceful nights sleep. We found everything very expensive and are thinking of finding work soon. We decided to make larger hops every day to get down to Georgetown ASAP.

Highbourne Cay to Warderick Wells North ? - 1400 March 24, 1995 - 23.2nm
A perfect day with a 10-12knot westerly, flat seas and a cloudless sky! Arriving at the anchorage we saw about 12 boats on moorings, so we attached ourselves to a free? one and thought this was great. We went out exploring by dinghy and stopped at the park rangers station, where we found out that we had to pay $15 for the mooring. So off we went around the southern part of the anchorage, and because the seas were so flat we just tucked in the entrance behind 2 little islands. That night a SE of 20-25knots blew up and the rocking and rolling became so bad that we spent another sleepless night.

Warderick Wells to Stanley Cay 0800 - 1500 March 25, 1995 14nm
Left early because we had enough of the rocky anchorage. Going out was quite rough with 6-8' seas steeped up by the outgoing tide. Once we got out to deep water, we had a pleasant 4 hr sail to Staniel. What a lovely place! Just what one would imagine the Bahamas would be like.
2 nights here, to catch up on some sleep.
Staniel Cay to Georgetown Great Exuma ? - 1500 56nm
We did spent one night at Rudder Cut, prior to Georgetown. Excellent entrance 20-25' all the way in and good anchorage as per guide. It was hard to find the entrance until you are very close!
Had to motor all the way to Georgetown as what little wind there was, was on the nose. Caught a 20lb dolphin fish (Mahi Mahi). This place is a real party anchorage with at least 200 boats.
The nick name for Georgetown is Chicken Harbour, because a lot of people keeping finding excuses not to go further, run out of time and head north again.
Today is April 1 and we are still here! We are definitely planning to head off tomorrow depending on weather.

Georgetown to Conception Island 0900 - 1730 April 2, 1995 40nm
Well we made it - got out of chicken harbour to head for Calabash Bay on the northern tip of Long Island, via Fowl Cay as per suggestion of of the new guide book 'The Gentleman's Guide to Passages South' , which Fenton bought from the author Bruce Van Sant, who happened to be in Georgetown on his yacht 'Jalan Jalan'.
Had to motor sail , as the wind was right behind us, but not strong enough to give us adequate speed. As we approached Calabash we decided to head for Conception Island (14nm further), as the anchorage would have been too rolly in a westerly. Arrival was a bit tight, time wise, but thanks to daylight saving, we made it in without any problems. We were greeted by 2 dolphins guiding us in to the anchorage in absolutely beautiful turquoise & crystal clear water. The wind changed to the NE during the night, giving us yet another rocky anchorage and sleepless night.

Conception Island to Rum Cay 0900 - 1500 April 3, 1995 19.4nm
Had a fantastic trip to Rum with Jib & Mizzen - occasionally got to 7.5 knots boat speed.
The wind swung again during the night to ESE which made the anchorage a bit rocky, but not bad enough to prevent us from having a good night's sleep. We had planed to head off to 'Mayaguna' , but with the wind 120 degrees and our course the same, we decided to wait another day, as the forecast was for SW the next day. Really hope so, as we wanted to get to the Turks ASAP and still have 120nm to 'Mayaguna' and 65nm to the Turks. Rum Cay was very disappointing as most of the reef was dead. Lots of parrot fish and blue surgeons, but that was it. The staghorn coral was incredible reaching 8-10', with some branches like tree trunks.

Rum Cay to Mayaguana 0800 April 7 arrived 1800 April 8, 1985 121nm
Started off with a reasonable sail SW wind for the first couple of hours, but then wind died and we had to motor sail the rest of the way. Fish jumping every where for hours. Caught a 30lb dolphin fish on a regular lure and then put out my home made lure and caught a 60 pounder within 10 minutes. As we ran out of ice, we organized for 'Sea Urchin', a boat we met at Georgetown to rendezvous with us to transfer the fish to their fridge. They were close enough to witness Fenton bring the 60lb fish alongside, break the line and about a foot of the rod. Jury rigged the rod with twine and a bull dog clip, made another lure and caught another 20lb dolphin! He kept on jumping over and over again but I was very happy when his last jump gave him freedom.

The rest of the trip was very long and tedious 3.5 knots boat speed, as the engine was making funny noises at high revs. Had a good sail the last few hours (SE 15-20) with a few scary moments as we came very close to some awsome looking water spouts. Run out of cigs, but got a reprieve when we were invited on boar 'Tiffany' for drinks, smokes and namus.
Mayaguan to Provo 2200 - 1000 April 9-10 64nm
An other overnight trip with 2 on 2 of watches and motor sail in light winds. The channel 'Sand bore' into Provo was a hair raising experience with 7-10' of crystal clear water for about 10nm. Customs here was an asolute joy, with the friendliest staff ( harbour master) I have ever encountered. Only $5 for both of us and the boat! The people here are very friendly and it was no problem to hitch a ride in and out of town (5 miles) to get supplies. Found out from Russel on 'Sea Urchin' that a 64' Mason "Katana" lost their skipper. Went over to see them and got the job for the three days they were here ($50/day) which helped to replenish the coffers. After 5 days sitting here waiting for weather we decided to pay the $23 overtime (Easter) and clear out of customs to take advantage of a ENE and leave early Sunday April 16.

Provo to Ambergris Cays 0700 - 1630 April16, 1995 53nm

Had a great sail most of the way until the wind swung a bit south and we had to motor sail (2nm) into the anchorage (6'). As we anchored close to some coral heads (bomies) we decided to go for a snorkel, which turned out to be very rewarding. Brought back 12 large 'conch'. Fenton couldn't carry them all, so he took off his swim trunk sand and stuffed them in there (luckily there was no one else around). Made a mountain of cracked conch for dinner and some conch 'namus'. The Caicos Bank is like a huge swimming pool - 45nm miles of 10-15' water with the odd dark coral head which are easy to spot and avoid. Had a brief visit from a pod of 5 dolphins on the way across.

Ambergris Cays to Luperon Dominican Republic 1000 April 17 - 1030 April 18 103nm
Decided that as the winds were right, to make a go for the Dominican Republic. Had a magnificent sail after motoring 1 1/2 hours through coral patches past Fish Cays. Put all sails up for the run to Luperon, averaging 6.5 - 7 knots. Decided that at this speed we would get to the Dominican Republic at about 3AM, so reduced sail to Mizzen and Stay sail. This ended up being a slow 3 knot and rolly trip. Should have put up a small jib and sailed properly.

"Whisper" at anchor in Luperon
Luperon harbour is completely protected as it is surrounded bu hills and mountains - almost like an inland lake.

Custom House? in Luperon harbour

Got conned by the conners ! Customs
They asked us for a tip, so we gave them $20, thinking that we outsmarted them by giving them the standard fee of $10 in addition! However when it came to going ashore to get our passports stamped, we had to pay another $20. Lesson to be learned - have single $ bills on hand for bribes.
Luperon itself is a very poor but also very friendly little town. Thatched roofs on 8 x 10' houses friendly people and everything is very cheap. Cigs less 1$ a pack, rum $3 a bottle and good and you can eat a big and very good lunch for 2-5$. Met some friendly locals, Luis & Ramon who took us to a cock fight (very gruesome) by "Gwa Gwa" the local bus service, at another village. One of my favorite places so far.

Luperon to Sosua 0400 - 1600 April 25 26nm
Sadly enough, it was time to leave Luperon. Seems we lost forward gear, so we are now truly sailors. Had an uneventful sail to Sosua which appears to be a real tourist destination with its own airport. We didn't go ashore as planned and attempted to raise the anchor, but it was solidly stuck in coral or rocks. Spent the night with the idea of diving in the morning to free it, however luck was with us for a change as we managed to raise it after a few wind shifts during the night. This was the beginning of a long tiring and frustrating sail around cape "miserable" - Cabo Frances Viejo.

It took us the whole day and night to get around. Tacking out for 3 or 4 miles, Tacking in again for a forward gain of a couple of miles. Finally the wind changed a bit and it looked like we could make Escondido in one tack, but alas that wasn't to be. At 1730 we were still 5nm from the entrance. Saw a small island 3nm south of the entrance and made for that. It was absolutely lovely with incredibly clear water, at least 30' visibility and no swell. This little island, which we named "Relief Rock", turned out to be our salvation after the long slog. A couple of 'sun downers' and a good nights sleep.
Relief Rock to Samana 0900 - 1930 April 29-30 26.8nm

We left 'Relief Rock' to round yet another CABO on our way to Samana. We thought that this would be another day-night-day slog, but as we rounded Cabo Cabron and Cabo Samana, we were able to ease off and do 6-7knts. We estimated to make Samana by 1400 - 1500, but alas the wind died at Punta Balandra and we drifted at 1/2knt for a couple of hours. The breeze finally came up again and as it doesn't get dark till 1930, we thought that we would make it all the way in. Suddenly the sounder showed 5', so we rounded up and anchored for the night. The next morning we discovered that we were right in the chanel and only a couple of miles out. A wire on the sounder had corroded giving us a false reading. Sailed into the harbour and were met by the usual con artists and beggars. Anchored up behind a little palm fringed island in 30' of water and only about 35' from the beach. The "comandante" (customs) came out to do their thing and the bribe this time was 3 bottles of "Brugal" (the local rum) of which we had bought a case in Luperon.

Fenton had the main repaired after 3 returns and US$100. Managed to get a 60lb block of ice for $10 which was great. Samana is visually prettier than Luperon, but after hearing about numerous thefts on other boats, we just wanted to get out of there. The place is too touristy and the people aren't anywhere near as friendly. Went for a hair raising ride on the back of a "moto concho" to a water fall and swimming hole which was really great.

Samana DR to Boqueron Puerto Rico May 1 to May 4 140nm
The "Mona Passage" should be renamed "Moan Passage". Most cruisers motor across this stretch, but without a gear box we had no choice but to sail. A 60 hour slog across with winds always on the nose! This was our longest and hardest day/night/day/night/day trip. When we finally sighted the harbour with a literal forest of masts, the wind died completely and we just floated for 3 hours, playing backgammon and consuming a couple of rums to pass the time. Finally made it almost in and anchored, just in time to go below in a rain squall. We sailed into the anchorage the next morning, to find all the boats that we had cruised with since Georgetown. This is a typical little tourist town overflowing with students from Mayaguez uni on weekends and empty during the week, with alcohol saturated Vietnam vets and a few locals. Great little side walk stands, heaped with mountains of fresh oysters & clams and a pub with pool tables on every corner.
Had to take a "Publico" (bus) to Mayaguez on Monday to clear customs. Evening via Aquadilla and a $60 cab fare to get back. Had planed to leave on Tuesday, but got a job installing a radar and SSB on "Zanzibar II" which delayed us by a week since the goods didn't arrive till the following Monday.

"Boqueron

Boqueron to Cabo Roho May 17 0910 - 1245 6.3nm
An uneventful sail and not a bad anchorage, but should have anchored closer to the light house to avoid the swell. Had a snorkel and a relaxing afternoon and evening.
Cabo Roho to Cayos Enrique May 18 0730 - 1320 13nm
Nice sail in 10-15knots ESE to these 2 little mangrove islands surrounded by reef. Went ashore for a reef walk - saw sea cucumbers, anemones, starfish and crabs, but not much else. Went for a snorkel in the afternoon in murky water and not much fish life. Lots of sponges, gorgonia cowries and the odd chaetodon (butterfly fish).
Cayos Enrique to Ensenada May 19 0700 - 1345 9.1nm
Easy sail in 10-15 knot ESE. The entrance to the harbour is very interesting - about 1 mile wide cut into cliffs either side. A very busy and commercial place with large wharves - a fertilizer tanker was tied up on the Gunica side and a nice peaceful anchorage on the Ensenada side. It's a long dinghy ride to Guanica but well worth while with the best supermarket since florida and quite cheap. Bought a huge leg of pork for $10 and a bottle of Bacardi for $4.85.

Fenton demolishing the rest of the leg of pork

Ensenada to Ponce May 20 0700 - 1800 17nm

A long and hard 17 miles, but well worth it when we tacked out to deep water and and came across a large school of bottle nose dolphins (at least 12) and then minutes later, a school of about 20 huge whale like dolphins - what a thrill!

Arrived at the anchorage by the yacht club, just as the game fishing fleet arrived. It took us over an hour to tack in light winds and churned up seas to anchor up. Had a nice dinner, but then a bit of a hard time to get to sleep, with an incredible racket made by announcers and blaring music coming from huge speakers till the early hours of the morning. But luckily we were so tired that we managed to sleep through most of it.

Ponce to Culebrita

Details of the log sadly got wet and unreadable, but we stopped at various spots including the resort of Palmas Del Mar